The True History of Chocolate
Wednesday, May 31st, 2006 @ 23:45
by Sophie D. Coe, Michael D. Coe (2003)
Generously accompanied with 97 illustrations (13 in colour), the book examines the origin of the cacao tree (Theobroma cacao, “food of the gods”), its history and sociological importance/pervasiveness from its first domestication by the Olmec, the more colourful widespread combinations of chocolate (e.g. with chilli, vegetables, meat, pasta) and finally its familiar present-day uses brought about by mass production and its recent luxurious status revival.
The Coes use wide-ranging datas in their research, presenting interesting insights of Mesoamerican culture and its history in relation to the use of cacao (as both delicacy and currency/luxury). After discussing known basic botanical and chemical properties of chocolate, early, pre-Columbian history, from the Olmec, the Maya, to the Aztec, is discussed using their linguistic roots and archaeological evidence.
The root of the name chocolate, more complex than most books and dictionary, is also elaborated in detail, debunking its Nahuatl language (”choco” and “latl” did not exist) or Aztec culture origin. Instead, (within “the murky realm of supposition”) they focus on early Maya vocabularies (”chacau haa“, literally “hot water”, or “chocol” in Yucatec, or from Quiché Maya verb chokola’j). They believe that the Spaniards felt the need for a switch from cacahuatl to chocolate (Maya word “chocol” and Aztec “atl“) due to the association of the Spanish term caca with feces or verbs describing defecation.
Accounts on the Spanish conquest, initially prudish in its adoption of chocolate, its subsequent addiction (and spread Europe-wide as the first stimulating drinks of kings and aristocrats) and appropriation are elaborated within the (forewarned) context of Western Galenic system. The Coes also analyze the attached importance (and symbolism) of chocolate within religous context in Christian churches (especially among the Jesuits) and political, sociological associations (as also in relation to coffee, tea, and coffeehouses).
For the present day, contemporary history of chocolate, a chapter is dedicated to give glimpses through Conraad Van Houten’s “Dutching” inventions, “Quaker capitalists” competitions between entrepreneurial families (the Frys, Cadburys, and Rowntree), the substance abuses/scandals (”potato starch, wheat or barley flour, pulverized cacao shells, gum, dextrin, or even ground brick”) and subsequent legislation, and Swiss chocolate (Henri Nestlé’s powdered milk evaporation, Rudolphe Lindt’s “conching”, Jean Tobler’s Toblerone), while from America Milton Hershey’s Disney-like chocolate dynasty. The chapter closes with the overview of modern procession of chocolate and the revival of high-quality chocolate. “Maya Gold” chocolate bar, from Fairtrade Foundation, closes the book as the epilogue that brings it to full circle.
Very readable and informative, The True History of Chocolate assumes no background in basic history or biology, so there are redundant (and sometimes prissy) explanations. But there are many interesting information to keep both general and specialised readers alike entertained.
June 4th, 2006 02:17
KYAAAA BUKU TENTANG COKELAT MAU MAU MAOOOOOOOOOO. CARI AH KALO DAH DAPET GAJI NTAR. waktu itu liat buku tentang sejarah parfum juga, jadi tertarik. kalo the devil’s cup udah baca kat? (buku tentang sejarah kopi)
tapi di rumah buku masih setumpuk belum dibaca sih, termasuk yang tentang maze.